I was recently dispatched to a Target to buy some Goldfish, which was a more daunting task than you might imagine.
That’s right, even Goldfish have gone organic. Sort of. Had I not recently sat on my reading glasses, I might’ve noticed a line at the bottom of the organic wheat Goldfish that said, “These crackers are 70% organic.”
Seventy percent organic?
The organic movement started out in the last century as an alternative to industrial agriculture, a vision of family farms, green fields and co-ops, and has now led us to 70 percent organic Goldfish. Along the way, it became largely co-opted by giant agribusinesses. Stalwart organic brands like Cascadian Farm and Kashi were taken over by General Mills and Kellogg respectively.
For the big food manufacturers, organic simply fills another market niche. I asked [Chris Foley, chief marketing officer at Pepperidge Farm] if Goldfish with organic wheat was any healthier than the regular kind, a tricky question for an executive at a large food company to answer.
“It’s an alternative,” he said.
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