Future protein: ‘If meat-loving habits prove too hard to shift, the obvious solution is to replace meat with meat’

Emissions per kilogram of cultured-meat protein could be smaller even than those from plant and insect protein. Credit: Ted Eytan via CC-BY-SA-2.0
Emissions per kilogram of cultured-meat protein could be smaller even than those from plant and insect protein. Credit: Ted Eytan via CC-BY-SA-2.0

Globally, 80 billion animals die for our dinners each year — and a joint report by the United Nations and the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development predicts that global demand for meat will rise by 15% by 2031, thanks to a growing affluent population.

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In response, the food industry is developing a bevy of alternative protein sources, from algae to insects (see ‘Fungi bacon and insect burgers: a guide to the proteins of the future’). But if the sensual experience of meat is a priority, then cell-cultivated meat might take top prize. “I’ve spoken to people who have been vegan for 15 years and they still crave meat,” says [biomedical engineer Mark] Post. If meat-loving habits prove too hard to shift, he says, the obvious solution is to replace meat with meat.

In the Western world, cultured meat might, ironically, find a big market among vegetarians, notes [food systems researcher Marco] Springmann. UPSIDE Foods, for example, has partnered with three-star Michelin chef Dominique Crenn, who plans to sell its product in her currently pescatarian restaurant.

If cultured meat is to make a dent in global problems, says [ecologist Pelle] Sinke, “it needs to replace conventional meat — not become another luxury item”.

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