Microalgae-based cosmetics? Popularity of new skin care products not yet matched by science

Credit: Estee Lauder
Credit: Estee Lauder

According to Mintel’s GNPD (Global New Product Database), in 2022, 22.2% of new US skincare product launches included chlorella or spirulina in their INCI (International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient). For comparison, in 2018, these two microalgae ingredients featured in 13.2% of new US skincare product launches.

Anna Keller, global senior beauty & personal care analyst at Mintel, said this showed that in the last five years, there had been substantial growth in the number of new beauty products launched in the USA with microalgae ingredients.

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Keller said that microalgae tapped into the ‘blue beauty’ movement, which focused on improving the relationship between the beauty industry and marine life and was driving demand for natural, vegan ingredients sustainably sourced from a ‘blue’ environment.

Some scientific research has confirmed the benefits of microalgal bioactivities for beauty, such as an increase in skin moisturization, promotion of microcirculation, and anti-inflammatory action. Most recently, a study by Brazilian scientists confirmed the potential of using microalgae derivatives in dermocosmetics with anti-aging claims or soothing properties.

However, microalgae can still be considered an under-explored natural resource of bioactive compounds for cosmetics, with brands relying on positive associations rather than proven efficacy.

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